I started writing this post on the rise of varsity jackets on February 28th. Just over a month later the trend has fully exploded as indicated by LeBron James, Rihanna and SZA, all of whom have made appearances in the silhouette.
And yes, for many fashion lovers the varsity jacket stays in the rotation (props to Kith and Supreme, which have never not honored the letterman), but if we’re being honest the varsity jacket is subject to rise and fall like any other trend and until recently its been in a major quiet period.
As it happens we’re in the beginning stages of a wave that has yet to even crest as indicated by two ends of the trend cycle spectrum, one super forward and the other behind the curve. While high fashion IQ Rhude designer Rhuigi is already bored by what he sees as a plethora of jackets he’s contrasted by an Oregon high school newspaper that declared the wool and leather jock jacket “extinct” last year.
While enthusiasm for the jacket among students interviewed for the article wasn’t high, the owner of Portland-based Settlemier’s Jackets and Logos concluded: “Even though it dips, it never goes away, and it won’t. It’s one of the few clothing items that are truly American.”
In between the aforementioned contrasting points of view, we’re also at the place where Avirex has risen from the dead and has announced it’s relaunching in the fall (owned by Marc Ecko for the latest incarnation according to Wikipedia).
Not a solo act, the varsity reenters the chat accompanied by fitted caps and licensed jerseys. At the same time, Kanye West’s circa 2004 wardrobe of cardigans, argyle vests, rugby shirts and other preppy stylings suddenly feel like the items to search for on vintage shops.
As the style landscape tremors, it’s worth pondering whether athleisure’s enduring hold on fashion has the potential to be rocked by the rise of preppy looks. I can see it now, the year is 2031 and that same high school newspaper will be interviewing students about the death of crewnecks and sweatpants.
Check out an array of varsity jackets below.
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